Hairdressing scissors Buying Guide

For the hairdresser, scissors are as important as a knife is for a chef. A good pair of hairdressing scissors cuts faster, more precisely and provides a more beautiful end result.

In this blog I will explain which scissors you should use for which technique. But also what the differences are between a pair of styling scissors and a pair of coupe scissors. What is an offset shear and what does micro-serrations do?

After this you know exactly which scissors are suited for which job.

What do you want to use the scissors for?

Let's start; what do you want to use the scissors for? Cutting, slicing, contouring or cropping? These techniques are usually done with a pair of cutting scissors. A pair of scissors has cutting blades that are generally smooth. Perfect for cutting or contouring, but also for slicing (sliding) through hair.

Microserration
Some scissors have microserration. These are small teeth that are incorporated into the blade.

These teeth provide a better grip on the hair while cutting. That is why many novice hairdressers use scissors with micro-serrations. But beware, slicing is not possible with micro-serrations.

Effileer Scissors or Coupe ScissorsCoupe scissors

For thinning or trimming of a hairstyle use coupe scissors (modeling scissors). These scissors stand out because of the teeth on one of the blades. By this toothing you do not cut all the hair and you are thinning out.

The more teeth on the blade the less the hair is thinned out. And vice versa, less teeth, more thinned out hair. After thinning you cut the hair with normal barber scissors again.

Effileerschaar
With effileerschaar you can only thin out her. effileerschaar has namely on both sides teeth on the cutting blade. With these scissors the more teeth the less thinned out hair and with less teeth the more thinned out hair.

There are also styling scissors on the market with both high and low teeth (this is called a prism). The difference in height provides a better grip and even more precise thinning of the hair.

View our effileer and coupe shears

The difference between convex cut and flat cutA

pair of hairdressing scissors can be sharpened in two ways; convex or flat.

Convex cut
Convex (Japanese way of sharpening) cutting blades are slanted or convex cut towards the edge. This type of blade is perfect for slicing (sliding through hair).
With convex ground scissors you cut hair at an angle. The advantage is that hair is less likely to split. Another advantage is that the hair dries out less.

Flat ground

If you want to cut hair at an even length you should use scissors with a flat cutting blade. Sharp lines in a haircut are usually also cut with a flat blade.

Classic or offset design

Ergonomics is important when choosing scissors. There are various designs available, but they can be divided into two groups; traditional hairdressing scissors and offset hairdressing scissors. The difference is in the design.

Traditional

Do you cut a lot? Then it may be that you suffer from injuries to your hand while cutting. This, because you always keep your hand in a certain position which is more tiring.

Offset
Hairdressing scissors with an offset (ergonomic) design is designed so that the scissors exactly to your hand. This means that the eye where you put your thumb is lower than the eye where your index finger is.

If you put both fingers in the scissors, you'll see immediately that your elbow hangs lower than with traditional scissors. By cutting in this way you have less strain on your hand and that is ultimately more pleasant.

But to know what you like best, you'll have to try both scissors. The feeling will ultimately be the deciding factor.

The difference in quality
Hairdressing scissors are made of different types of steel. Of course, this does not say enough about a pair of scissors. What you should pay attention to when buying scissors is the HRC (Hardness Rockwell C-Scale) This is also used with knives. It stands for the hardness of the steel.

Japanese scissors
Hairdressing scissors from Japan are highly regarded because of the high quality steel they use. The blades are hard and razor sharp, but a lot more vulnerable. Therefore, never drop Japanese scissors and only use them to cut hair.

German scissors
In Germany are also very good hairdressing scissors made, think of brands like Jaguar and De Witte. These scissors are generally more robust, but still sharp.

Jaguar
Jaguar has several lines of hairdressing scissors on the market. These lines vary in price, partly because different types of steel are used.

But also the number of steps in the process determines the price of the scissors. It takes about half a year to produce a pair of scissors. But then the scissors meet all the requirements that you may expect from a hairdressing scissors.

The different sizes

There are different sizes of hairdressing scissors on the market. But which actions should you perform with which scissors?

The small hairdressing scissors (up to 5 inch - 12.7 cm) are lightweight. These scissors are mainly used for fine cutting and contouring of hair.

From 5.5 inch (14 cm) on, you use the scissors for general cutting work. This is the most popular size. A 5.5 inch scissor is still lightweight, but has enough blade to work fast and still accurate.

From 6.5 inch on they are used for coarser cutting work. These shears are generally a bit heavier. The length makes it more difficult to cut very precisely, although an experienced hairdresser can do almost anything with them.

Eye rings
With larger scissors, the eyes of the scissors also become larger. It can happen that the scissors will turn. You can prevent this by filling the eyes of the scissors with plastic eye rings.

Nickel allergy sufferer: choose coated scissors

It is of course possible that you are allergic to nickel. In that case, choose scissors that are 100% nickel-free. These are scissors with a special coating, sometimes coloured and sometimes with a layer of titanium.

Some more points of attention

Pinkie support
A pinkie support ensures that all your fingers are in line. This allows your hand to relax more while cutting. It also reduces the risk of injury to your hand and/or arm. A pinky support is often also a scissors to turn off if you do not find it comfortable to work.

Swivel
There are also hairdressing scissors with a turning thumb eye. This is called a swivel. This turns with you so pressure on your thumb to relieve and friction. This ergonomic swivel makes your scissors easier to handle, although it takes some getting used to.

Set screw
Some scissors have an adjustable turn screw. This screw regulates the tension on the scissors. If your scissors don't cut well anymore you can adjust the tension manually with this screw.

Sharpness test
If you would like to know if your hairdressing scissors are still sharp you can try the following.
Wet a tissue, cut through the tissue. If it goes easily then your scissors are still sharp. If not, have them sharpened by our sharpening service.

Maintenance
Maintenance is necessary for your hairdressing scissors. You do this by cleaning the scissors after each haircut. Also, adjusting the scissors and regularly oiling them will extend the life of your hairdressing scissors.

Hopefully this blog made you wiser about hairdressing scissors and you can make a good choice. If not, we would love to hear from you!

View all our hairdressing scissors here